A new design short stroke 230 six cylinder is standard. But I think this thing would still be swaying almost as bad with the old bias type tires. I used early classic dropped spindles on mine then replaced the rear end with a 72 giving me 5on 5 bolt pattern. Any suggestions on an automatic trans that would bolt up to the 6 cylinder for the time being and could also work if I decide to go with the 327 later on? It was immediately discovered the upper shock brackets were no longer in the correct orientation causing the shocks to bind. I hope this makes sense. They needed to be moved to the rear at more of an angle. One advantage of the six is most get replaced with a V8, so when a six shows up at a rod run, they always draw a crowd especially with split pipes and multiple carbs.
The lower ball joint is a press fit, so you need to remove the lower control arm and take that to a shop with a press. Now it becomes a game of measuring and marking, measuring and marking. In the 55-59 Truck Manual, there is a section on welding to those frames. It was immediately discovered the upper shock brackets were no longer in the correct orientation causing the shocks to bind. Starts and stops and changes in direction get really expensive and can lead to disenchantment with the project.
She is pretty ruff looking but my first priority is getting her driving down the road again. Once again the manila file folder template was used to locate the mounting holes for the idler arm. It would include better brakes, a 12 bolt rear, and a 350 trans, and the power steering I really want among alot of other extras. The last step was the steering linkage. In closing, good luck with your truck and keep us posted on your progress.
I will never understand why no one ever adapted a sway bar for these T Bar trucks. They serve to move the bar 1 inch from the frame, so it clears the power steering gear box and the front bumper brackets. Initially the rear torsion bar crossmember was left in place. Using a tool this precise prevented any damage to the brackets. I believe one was underneath and the other was the upper rear which needed to be elongated.
They have nicely stated that getting too crazy with your plans will end up in another eBay basket case. I used early classic dropped spindles on mine then replaced the rear end with a 72 giving me 5on 5 bolt pattern. Any one seen these on T-Bar trucks before? Thanks for the help, Greg Mead Yes, that's what I'm saying. Now there is only one step left. That is the one I think they welded to the A-Arms to mount. I know this will never corner like a Corvette. I test fit the new crossmember to the frame.
Looks like it attaches to the lower control arm nicely. A couple of guys on here are real diplomats. I said he cut it off but it unbolts. Mine was parked at 96,000 on the money. The holes for the brake hoses were the first step of the conversion, which took several hours.
I blelive the 63 style bar is longer than the 67-72 style. I am going to order the Addco 117 and try to emulate his install. In the rearend a 71-72 is a direct bolt in for 5 lug to match the front end. Just assemble the whole suspension and steering and c clamp the idler to the frame and drill the holes. One advantage of the six is most get replaced with a V8, so when a six shows up at a rod run, they always draw a crowd especially with split pipes and multiple carbs. That torsion bar front may be desirable to some. I have so many ideas going on right now Im just gonna stop rambling on.
For me, time was important so a kit made the most sence. I tried to crank down the torsion bars to go lower and it doesn't rode well. I disagree somewhat with Val on swapping the entire unit. This project could probably be completed in a weekend if planned out ahead of time. Once again the manila file folder template was used to locate the mounting holes for the idler arm. I used a 71 parts truck to swap everything over on a 63 I built years ago.