Those look nearly identical to the ones I bought. It did that 3 times in my 30 mile drive to work. It ran like a champ from day one and always had good power. If you have snow like we have snow here in southern Ontario, Canada, the water was snow from someone's boots that the heater melted. It seems to have plenty of power on the freeway after about 50 or so mph but slow to get there.
Its easy to do, I did it on mine. The last 2 months or so it started to overheat here and there. It is such a fun car to drive. Well I did have it for a year and 8 or 9 months and I hit 95K miles on it. Be sure to get the correct one for your year. I don't have much technical knowledge but I just followed it step-wise, and works perfect! Stop engine and allow to cool.
I replaced the radiator cap also and had the coolant flushed and replaced with new coolant. Fun factor: like many imports, they are a blast to drive if you put money into the car. Good evening Gent's Thanks for taking the time for this. One other tip--I had an '88 Chrysler New Yorker before my Lexus. I don't know which motor mounts he's referring to i'll ask him which specific one's but he said those will fix the jerkiness that occurs when i change gears sometimes or floor it or just driving. There is no check engine light on.
As to the heater not blowing heated air, if the cooling system has air pockets, it would not work correctly. As with many black cars I didn't like all the swirlys. I guess maybe it was the way I drove it?????????? After about 7 or 8 minutes though the coolant level suddenly drops and it starts to spit the coolant out of the top of the radiator. There was indeed small and big air bubbles rising to the top of the radiator. In 2006, my son started driving it and beat it to hell. All Replacement items are backed by a 1-year, unlimited-mileage warranty. The lights on the dash tach and speedometer have gone black - used to be bright red, but I do not have a problem with the aesthetics.
The catalytic converter was replaced about 5000 miles ago since my mechanic suggested that might be the problem. Gonna keep looking around and find a place to get the cheapest labor if possible. The cassette player will not work when i get free time i will try to take it out and try to fix it. I bought the car from an individual a couple of weeks ago and he said he had placed a new radiator and thermostat in the vehicle. Replaced the Gas struts what a pain that was. Any dash or radio lights that are dim when the remainder are bright, indicates that these dim bulbs need to be replaced.
I don't know if it's the port itself or the wires that connect to it. I am stumped as to what this could be any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. It'd die just before I made it to a complete stop for a stop light. Yeah, I just keep remember how smooth the acceleration was. While bleeding cooling system, it is recommended to turn the heater on. Someone else told me it might be my O2 sensor i'm not sure though.
Do this with the ignition off. Build quality: i noticed that one of the motor mounts are broken, the weather stripping seal is missing from the hood, moon roof is cracked, cd player 6 disk shuffle has been getting errors out of nowhere, worked fine for a whole week then kept getting errors. Go to Pep Boys or whoever offers cheap testing of the electrical system. Gonnareplace all he fuses and get a mechanic to replace the dash bulbs seems like a pain if i were to try. Did you check the cooling fan? Sometimes the fuse is bad even when you can't see that its burned through.
The car runs fast and quiet - as good if not better than it did when new. Hello my car had no problems starting up and battery didn't seem dead. Appearance: looks like a 95 4 door camry. The heater core went out at 230k and it took me about an hour to replace it and it was super easy. I don't understand the shaking most of all! Performance: i give it a 4 because of the sluggish start from 1k to 4k rpm.
Also after further checking the top radiator hose was hot but the bottom radiator hose was not hot or even warm at all. Be careful on that, use some penetrating lubricant. But in the end I guess it didn't last. I guess it's probably the wires gotta get in there somehow and replace it. Without doubt, the best car I have ever owned. I just shimmed the sway bar and the rubber grommet and the clunking noise went away. I have recently had it smoged but had to disconnect the battery beforehand to reset it.
Thought maybe a head gasket but the car is not steaming from the tailpipe nor is the oil cap milky looking. Fire up your ignition system with Replacement Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil! I have had it tuned up and still the problem persists. I need some type of rubber cement I tried one but it didn't seem to work around the back window and drivers side window there seems to be areas where water will seep through and i'm trying to patch those up. This is a direct replacement to your stock factory piece. Purchase your brand new coil-on-plug type ignition coil at the lowest price! I don't know I'll look into it. Remember that a Camry switch from the same model series should be interchangeable.