First, be sure it's the motor, not the switch. Click on the following free direct Link. So I put a 40 dollar oil pump on and a 8 dollar sending unit is what fixed it. These will have to be drilled out and then you can remove the assembly. The small terminal will continue to get voltage through that internal connection that is incorrectly going to the battery.
In the photo above, the large stud on the right has a single wire that goes to the smaller terminal on the starter. Once the window motor is separated from the window regulator pop the new one in and do everything in reverse to re-install it. If it does, try the motor. If you are working by yourself this can take a moment, but is quite easy with assistance. If not, pull all the wires off the large studs.
Once because I used a part from a junkyard and it died, and once because the aftermarket part broke. It's not easy and it's not fun. You will have to feel around on the inside of the regulator to find it. Drain about 1 gallon of coolant from the radiator Remove this housing Make note how thermostat is installed in housing Clean both surfaces Replace thermostat and gasket Re-install housing Re-fill … coolant slowly to prevent an air lock Start engine and look for leaks Run engine to normal operating temperature with heater on Re-check coolant level Disconnect battery. So can anyone explain why that was happening my truck has four wires that hook up all together 1. I'm not familiar with the letter designations or any yellow wires. Please some help I tried to put as much detail into this.
Sounds like you had the wires on the two large studs switched around. If the window is stuck in any other position you may have to drill out the pop-rivets holding the window and window regulator in place. If so, tighten all hardware and reinstall panel. If for some reason your says. Be careful not to drop your wrench while you are removing the bolts, it is very difficult to get into the small area at the bottom to recover tools or bolts. The first thing that you have to do is remove the door panel. This can be a terrible pain.
Tried to crank truck over and was making a click sound my dad told me it was the solenoid. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa. At first the pair were reversed from what you can see on the pic now, the difference was that I was getting no power the other way around so I put them to what you see in picture now and got display lights to come on and headlights + ignition to crank over, so if I try again I want to make sure there is no spark when wires touch large studs? If the window is stuck in any other position you may have to drill out the pop-rivets holding the window and window regulator in place. My first thought was those two large terminals are reversed. I have aftermarket motors from one of the major auto parts stores which have lifetime warranties, which I've already made use of. On stock solenoid all of the wires listed 2-4 hooked up to b terminal and thats what I hooked up to napa solenoid but difference was the starter wouldnt disengage.
Be careful not to drop your wrench while you are removing the bolts, it is very difficult to get into the small area at the bottom to recover tools or bolts. On the right side of the door there is a small opening where part of the window motor can be accessed. If the light comes on, but the starter doesn't run, replace the starter probably bad brushes. Once these screws have been removed you just have to pull on the bottom of the door panel and pop out the plastic clips working upwards. I have a 1990 F150 and I've changed both power window motors in it, twice. .
On the right side of the door there is a small opening where part of the window motor can be accessed. It has several Serpentine Belt Diagrams for the 1987 Ford Pickups. To access the hidden bolt the window regulator must be all of the way up, or at least very close to it. Bought a napa solenoid, but it wasnt a direct replacement it came with the I stud original only came with M B and S, anyways hooked up new solenoid and got no power for nothing so I figured I had it hooked up backwards, so I switched places with the M and B and got power and truck started up problem and question is that the starter wasnt disengaging when truck was running so turned off ignition and unhooked the S terminal and battery to turn it off. Should be in a removable housing at the engine end of the upper radiator hose. This is exactly what I did on my truck, like I said, on both doors. That's why you would also have to disconnect the battery cable.
The stickers on the truck will have the most specific info for that truck of anything. So the the red wire needs to be hooked up elsewhere because I have two seperate yellow wires and just 1 red one with a fuse hooked with the red wire. Once all of the clips have been removed you will need to slide the door panel upwards and it will come off of the door. Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. You'll hear it easily from inside the car. There's a quick disconnect inside the door. Use at least a 1 inch bolt, and once you have the washers and nuts on it, tighten it down and cut off the excess using a rotary tool with a cutoff wheel.
Remove the motor and replace it. There are three 8mm bolts holding the window motor to the window regulator. The other 3wires lay over B terminal witch if im right is on the right side of solenoid saying S terminal is north, yeah that was what I was going to do is put original back on and see if it still makes clicking noises again, does the sequence of the wires order have anything to do with it, lets say if I didnt put the wires in direct order over the B terminal saying red was on top then the yellow then other yellow would that have anything to do with it? To remove the motor, first secure the window glass with several long pieces of duct tape, or something similar, to keep the glass from falling once you remove the window regulator. They are much cheaper than the dealership, and will honor their warranty as well. If so, Place a test light on the starter terminal itself and have someone try the starter.
It must release when you release the switch. Once the door panel is off remove the factory plastic covering from the door. So i changed the oil pressure sending unit on the drivers side of the block a … nd that fixed it. The last tricky part is getting it past the door handle. This can be a terrible pain.