For diagnostic information on how to check the operation of the blend door and a cheap easy fix, check the heatertreater listing on Ebay or the web site at heatertreater. This brought the car back to mostly normal, and I thought it was probably overdue for a plug change so I changed them as well. Reply to , , or call me 260-222-1158, and thanks. At age 61 I still enjoy that sound! I do rememeber the pinging and detonation on occasion with it. Last night the engine light went on and it missed. My next chunk of cash goes to the Japs.
I love it so far. That's funny, but I believe it is screwed right into your oil filter adapter. It was quite a versatile engine yet it had lived its life. The headlights went out, the tach was jumping all over the place, the radio went to loud static and the engine would die or give the appearance of ready to die. The intake manifold leaks coolant into the 4 plug 121,800 miles or 63,000 on the new motor.
So even if you do leave a shell or two in the engine it still should not be more than a 3 hour or so job. F-150 forums are full of people disappointed with the perfomance, economy, and resale of their 4. It about matched the 2. Did you find an answer? You may then experience anything from wildly shifting temperature gauges to general overheating. Brakes replaced and air manifold, and water pump. I did have a stupid moment with this car though.
I bought the car in 2003 with only 15,010 miles on it. Reply a little late here. Why buy a new crate 2008 Ford F-150 engine and pay double? I got my second from Rock Auto, hope that it lasts awhile. Hope to still be hauling the boat to the lake with this little engine in 20 years, which at my current use would only bring it to about 200k miles. This repair does pose a higher degree of complexity than a similar repair on an overhead valve engine.
And in any case, the legendary durability these engines have developed a reputation for pretty much vindicates the engineers and their overall design choices, bizarre or not. As long as I kept pouring oil into it every 1,000 miles, it was happy to start instantly in any kind of weather and run as long as it had gas. It will make a world of difference in the handling. For equal brake pull down. It still got into more time and dealing with differences to place one where the other was. Fortunately there was enough head left to tap new threads into the socket: I made sure to put in a stainless-steel sleeve with many more than three threads.
Pour the used oil into a plastic container after the used oil cools. That shows where the bigger compromise in the design probably is. Or go to a mustang forum…I bet someone else had similar experience. Let It Flow Some cars have a bleeder valve located in the head or front of the radiator. Previous owner towed a sprint car with it for a couple of years, but you would never know.
She made a trip to the EmRm on that one. It is still not unusual in this part of the United States to find cars powered by early versions of the 4. The only solution was a taller deck for the 5. If you are driving it strictly around town, yes, 12 to 13 sounds about right. It is a rwd vehicle and also uses the Ford 4.
This picture shows a failure along the front of the manifold; various sources will show various locations of failure. I was reluctant to buy a vehicle with more than 130k on it but these things seem to be bulletproof. Check the temperature of the heater hoses going into the firewall when the engine is cool and see if they warm up together as the engine warms up. Maybe not for a Town Car. Wipe off the drain plug and the plug opening when the oil finishes draining.