If you have the electronic transfer case, there should be two plugs. Do this part with a helper. I have an aftermarket crossmember from suicidedoors. Haven't had a chance to ck any sites yet for info, just thought it was odd. Remove the transmission fluid level indicator. Then bolt the starter in.
Position a jack stand to support the engine. Reinstall the rear driveshaft using a 12 point 12mm socket. There should still be a one piece purge solenoid and purge sensor with hose assembly available. Torque to 59 ft-lb in a star pattern. Mark the relationship of a converter stud to the flexplate. If you have a manual transfer case, I assume there is one.
No problem bolting the crossmember back in. Delivery time was decent for cross border into Canada. Remove the transmission pan bolts and drain the transmission. Hook up the wiring for the transmission. Mark the front driveshaft at the transfer case yoke and U-joint flange.
Separate the transmission from the engine and carefully lower the transmission from the vehicle. Your kit was a perfect fit and was exactly what was required for my rebuild. Remove bottom support bar, place a tranny jack underneath the vehicle, have a helper loosen the bolts and set it down. I ended up getting a tranny jack cause my son and myself couldn't get in by hand. The bolt heads are accessible from the transmission side.
Remove two bolts retaining the fan shroud to the radiator. Then have a friend help you remove the transmission. The crossmember of your Ford lets you enjoy the benefits of being provided with a good ground clearance, making sure you'll have a more level ride and hassle-free driving experience. The replacement crossmember ought to fit just right with your Ford. Release the pedal quickly each time. Installing this transmission really quieted my truck down. Well I found this thread- Going to try the tilt the engine down and attack them at an oblique angle.
I can actually hear my engine now. Disconnect the transmission cooler lines and install protective caps on the lines. To ensure safety and convenience, be sure that the crossmember is a perfect match for the unique design of your Ford Ranger. Removal of 4R55E Similar to a4ld minus some electronic connectors 4x4 1. No problem bolting it in, just that it made the C6 hit the floor due to the one-pirce tranny mount. We have over lots of customer reviews on Ford Crossmember to help you find exactly what you need.
It is the higher plug on the driver's side. Install the pushrod by just pushing it into the groove. Position a transmission jack, raise it to the transmission, and secure it with a safety chain. Connect the heat shield to the pan and remove the drain pan. Step 3: Clutch and Rear Main Seal Replacement If you are replacing the master cylinder, unbolt the reservoir using a 8mm socket. If you remove the clip, you can slide the master cylinder out. I ended up lifting the body to remove the engine, and transmission.
Remove the shifter boot by removing the four screws holding it to the floor plate. Connect the other end of the hose to the slave cylinder at the fitting. Remove four bolts retaining the driveshaft centering flange to the rear axle companion flange. You may need some extensions and wrenches to remove these bolts. Our kit utilizes sleeves and washers to replace the doughnut shaped stock pieces.
Remove two bolts retaining the fan shroud to the radiator. Remove the starter stud and bolt. Reverse assemblely in same order remember to torque all your bolts with torque wrench. Remove the starter stud and bolt. I'll weld the damn thing before I do that. Place your shift boot onto the shifter rod, bolt it in, and push the shifter knob into place.
Since it's a front wheel drive, the engine has to be supported with a special hanger. The pressure plate is held behind the cover, so be ready to catch it when you remove the cover. Now it is time to reinstall everything. Disconnect the heat shield from the transmission pan. Remove the ground wire nut at the starter motor and position the wire aside. Reinstall the transfer case crossmember.